The Origin of Kaga-yuzen
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Kaga-yuzen has its origin in Ume-zome(Zome: dyeing).
It is a dyeing method calledeKaga-zomefwith yoji-nori
(a special paste),
astrigency from persimmon and the bark of plum tree,
which was used in Kaga area (the origin name for Kanazawa area)
about 500 years ago.
Kaga-mon, which is also the origin of kaga-yuzen, is the design
drawn on black plain cloth made of Kaga-kinu(silk).
Various patterns like sho-chiku-bai(that is, a pine tree, a bamboo,
and a plum tree) are depicted
around family crests located on the center of cloth.
Dyeing craftsmen was competing with each other
for minute techniques of kaga-mon in those days.
It was very popular among upper-class samurai and
sophistcated citizens.
Yuzensai Miyazaki, popular printer and dyer in Kyoto,
came to live in Kanazawa in 1712 at the height of the
Genroku caluture
( in the middle Edo period) and builed up the foundations
of@Kaga-yuzen with Taya Taro, a merchant patronized
by the federal of Kaga.
He devoted himself to the spreading of the dyeing technique
using Yuzen-nori(a paste which prevent the colors from running)
and to the development of Kaga-yuzen, whose novel designs
people were fascinated by.
Under the samurai culture of the federal of Kaga
like Nogaku and Sado and the traditional industriy such as
Kaga-zogan, Kaga-makie, Kinpaku etc.,
Kanazawa City has produced many of nationalwidely celebrated
masters such as Uzan Kimura who was recognized
as a living national treasure of
Kaga-yuzen in Japan. Kaga-yuzen still plays part
in the kimono culture as a traditional art in Japan:
its tradition has been succeeded to current
craftsmen through their vigorous and creative activities.
The Yuzen was designated as the traditional handicrafts
by the country in 1975 and as the intangible cultural asset by
Ishikawa Prefecture
in order to inherit and develop its technique. The association
eKaga-yuzen Gijyutu Hozon Kaif
which consists of highly-skilled craftsmen, was established
to preserve and improve the technique.
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Designer Yuzensai MIyazaki, the Originator of Yuzen-zome
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Yuzensai MIyazaki, a popular fan printer at Kyoto in
Genroku times(in the middle of Edo period), created
the new design
on Kosode(a komono with short sleeves)
with his own invention Yuzen-nori(a paste which prevent
the colors from running).
It breathed a new life into the dyeing world and the lure
and appeal of kaga-yuzen began to be known to the public:
this is the birth of Kyo-yuzen(Kyo=Kyoto).
After that, Yuzensai, who was said to be from Noto
(the north area of Ishikawa Pref.), moved to Kanazawa
in his later years.
He spread the patterns of Kagga-yuzen by introducing Yuzen-nori,
the dyeing tecnique to prevent the colors from running.
That is why the name Yuzen-zome comes from his name Yuzensai.
He died on June 17, 1736 and the festival Yuzen-ki is
held on May 17 every year at Rykokuji temple at Higashiyama
in Kanazawa City,@where his tomb was found.·B
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The obvious difference between Kaga-yuzen and Kyo-yuzen(Kyo=Kyoto)
closely depends on the culture where each of Yuzen was born.
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Tegaki(hand-drawn) Kaga-yuzen
The picturesque designs which consist of realistic flower pattern are a
peculiarity
of Kaga-yuzen.@Compared with gorgous and elegant designs of Kyo-Yuzen,
it expresses calm and gentle beauty and has the flavor of
Buke(the upper class such as samurai or bushi). It is a style of various colors
with shades of red, which is based on
eKaga-gosai(gosai=five colors)findigo, crimson, chrome yellow, grass green,
and antique purple.
Natural beauty is skillfully depicted with the technique of line, shading,
and the
accent called Mushi-kui@(literally;leaves gnawed by insect). The characteristic
shading called
eSaki-bokashifare used in drawing flowers:
the outside of flower is darker and the inside lighter and color of each
flowers are
different side by side.
Kaga-yuzen is completed only by dyeing to the end. They were abstaining
from luxury
under their living of Buke cuture in Kaga
so that embroidery and ornament such as gold and silver leaf are rarely used,
which brings the flavor and the heart of dyeing.
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Tegaki Kyo-yuzen
The distinctive feature of Kyo-yuzen is large and clearly patterns with
gorgeous coloring.
Goshoguruma(imperial carts) and Misu(luxurious bamboo blinds) are drawn.
The patterns of flowers at the four seasons and Goshodoki-monnyou
(designs of imperial palace), which princesses of aristcrats and
the ladies of Daimyos(fedural lords) loved, appear on refined Kosode,
a kimono with short sleeves.
It is the peculiarity and the tradition of Kyo-yuzen that luxurious embroidery and gold and
silver leaf are used together to embellish Kosode with.
Two Types of coloration are unique: Bokashi shades the inside of the pattern
darker and the outside lighter and the other is
Benisashi(dyeing with red). Each of the dyeing proceses, which is different
from Kaga-yuzen, are thoroughly separated
and a piece of work Kyo-yuzen is completed by approximately
20 kinds of specialized techniques.
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